Shmone is a fitting name for the newest New York City restaurant from Israeli chef Eyal Shani. Pronounced “shmo-neh” – with the emphasis on “neh” – shmoneh means ‘eight’ in Hebrew. This makes perfect sense – considering the restaurant is located on Eighth Street in the heart of Greenwich Village. Set in a former sushi spot, Shmone arrives in New York after the celebrated success of more than 40 Shani-helmed eateries across the globe. Starting with the seafood-focused Oceanus in his hometown of Jerusalem more than 30 years ago, Shani has established himself as the world’s leading proponent of contemporary Israeli cuisine.
Despite its modest proportions, Shmone features the similarly-styled interiors scheme as all of Shani’s restaurants. At its center will be an open kitchen – designed like a bar and surrounded by bar seating for eating that’s as up-close-and-personal as possible. Fanning out from the bar are a series of intimately-placed and precisely-positioned tables to take in the culinary spectacle just beyond. Around and above are intricate, regally-inspired lighting and chandeliers that imbue Shmone with a strong sense of elegance and occasion. “Shmone has a similar design story to other Eyal Shani restaurants, only smaller and cooler,” says Shahar Segal, Chef Shani’s business partner.
The menu is itself elaborately-composed and intriguingly laid-out much like a verse or sonnet. The drama begins with the breads, a scallion-inflected bourkas baked on hot stone or hot focaccia studded with tomatoes rich with sour cream. Next up are “vegetable creatures,” dishes drawn directly from the earth such as white asparagus cooked on charcoal and doused with sour cream or the flesh of an heirloom tomato tucked within “the softest tortellini you’ve ever tasted.”
Then there are wild fish “from the depths of the ocean” – a white-fish carpaccio, “huge” sardines on charcoal, Spanish mackerel with a deep beet “perfume,” and monkfish enriched with Osetra caviar butter. Ocean creatures follow on the menu: rock shrimp in “gentle” olive oil and “strong spicy” peppers; calamari paired with a mashed pea masabaha; seven “clouds” of ricotta and crab swirled in ricotta milk. And finally — the meat dishes; “Grade A Cow and Lamb Fed in Flowering Fields,” is how Shani describes them. Standouts include hand-chopped lamb kebab with yogurt and “burned” vegetables; thinly-sliced entrecote “on a sharp metal,” sweetbreads and freekeh-stuffed onion and a 60-day dry-aged prime rib steak.
Shmone is located at 61 W 8 th Street and open Tuesday to Sunday from 5pm to midnight. For more information, visit www.shmonenyc.com or call (646) 438 9815.